[休闲娱乐]Look for watery village in Dream

楼主:molihua 时间:2003-07-30 23:30:00 点击:333 回复:4
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Look for watery village in Dream
  MoLi
  
  Looking for her among the mass for many times
  Perhaps,pople in Guangzhou can recite the poem about the Peart River”it is much joyful in than on the banks,and green hills and clear rivers are the homes .”For this reason,one should know the Guangzhou has been having very good relatiationship with the water,Among those olb pictures hanging in the Minghui Building,there is one about Henan Island,It is the whole present District,In that place till the late Qing Dynasty people lived on the water the boats and rivers making the wonderful sceneries of watery regions in the southern China.bud now Guangzhou I face every bay is a metropolis full of tall buildings .People can only make up the image of the watery regions by pictures,texts and imagination.
  I heard the name of Xiaozhou Village in the radio program for the first time,Xiaozhou Village is named as the old village with most characteristics of the watery region in the southem China by the government,The leaders of the Village told me about Xiaozhou Village in datail whit one kind of pride.What I was mostly impressed by his words was that there was an ancestral temple with 99 doors,At that time I could not help but marveling,and I imaged how wonderful it would be!
  On a very clear and sunny weekend,with a will of looking for the watery village in the southern China,after consulting the electronic map and finding out the approximate of Xiaozhou Village,Iset out.I wandered in Haizhu District and stopped the for several times to ask others for the way ,I seemed to feel that “it was too difficult to find it out ”,when I felt a little bit disappointed,the sign of Xiaozhou Village suddenly appeared in front of me.At that moment,I was so surprised and pleased.Then,I met the fragrance of mud from the field and numerous green fuit trees.The red persimmons were standing on the tops of the trees ,and countless starfruist were hanging on all branches of the trees.In the distance some milch cows were eating grass under the shed…
  I went into Xiaozhou Village through a small bridge,Under the enthusiastic guidance of the villagers,I started my visit of Xiaozhou Village .
  I hesitated to move on.The sounds made out by the shoes hitting the stones were very pleasant.Theywere so different from the sounds by the shoes hitting the cement and marble floor.I even imaged that it would be so nice if I had one pair of wooden clogs,and it could surely make out the music as “the rain hitting the banana tree”.
  The narrow stony lane,the floating muddy waterway,the stylishly-dressed villagers,the abandoned small boat,the indistinct bark of dog ,the quietness-breaking motorcycle sound,the newly-built modem houses,the ordered firewood,the fashionable barbershop,the stores full of commodities,the broken and old doors and windows…all these,things with so many contradictions in this village with most characteristics of the watery region in the southern China were mixed up and combined together incidentally by the history.
  
  Simple folkways
  We walked along the narrow and crooked watercourse,going through the village.Xiaozhou Village is forned by the alluvium of the sea,and so there are many river courses in it.Where these is a river,there is a bridge.There are scores of bridges in Xiaozhou Village.They are all quite old,smiple and crude.Some are even made only by connecting two stones.
  One bridge is very special with some shout stone guardrails.It is the Hanmo Bridge with a with a history of more than 200years.There is “one”tree,where a longan tree and a banyan tree grow together as one tree.The village call this two-in-one tree”lover tree ”.It is said that bridegroom and bride must go around the tree and then pass the Hanmo Bridge when they hold the wedding,It is said that this can bring good luck and harmony forever.
  The park in the village is called Ying Garden.There are various trees and flowers frequendly seen in the southem China:kapok trees,banyan trees,Chinese redbud and fernletaf hedge bamboo,etc…Bacause it was weekend,the busy atmosphere,was the same as that in the parks of Guangzhou.Some children were playing ball in the open space.Some were playing under the banyan tree,which stong branches became very nice slide and teeter-totter.Some roots of banyan tree came out of the ground,and formed very nice works of art.The dranches hanged over the riverbanks.The green and fine leavers fluttered in the breeze.
  The ancestor tenple with 99doors was not found.The rusted ancestor temple by the side of the park made people get a glimpse of charm.As soon as my feet touched the stoue plates of the ancestor temple,sanctity spontaneously came out from my heart. The tall column of the ancestor temple and the building of impressive style gave me an invisible implication:I should face the things with one kind of feeling of pilgrimage or preparation of devotion.
  We could only image that the ancestor temper used to be so important in the hearts of the villages:people gathethe in the ancestor temple whenever there was an important festival or activity,offering sactifices to gods and ancestors and discussing about the administrative matters in the village…
  It was completely empty in the ancestor temple.perhaps historical stories were written on all walls.One could image the great and vigorous gesture in those years from the hall eaver of the ancestor temple.
  Some simple folkways reman in the village.When the dragon boat competitiom is held every year,People organize a team caiied “Yingzhou Flying Dragon”to take part in the competition.The burning incense is still continuously curling upwards in those ancestore temples and shrines,which are still used by the villagers.The villagers looked at us with very friendly eyes.We also smiled at them,askings things about the village as if they were our family members in the homeland.
  
  Quiet embroidering girls
  In those ancient stores,the needlework is the required course for girls.But we can not do that any more now.We are used to buy the finished commodities.
  There are many handork workshops in Xiaozhou Village.The technical art called embroidery still remains.
  The middle age women were sitting on the riverdank,quietly making a wonderful picture on the thin silk cloth pearls and pearl flat pieces.We talked with them for a while.While talking to us calmly,their fingers were holding the embroidering needles all the times,shuttling on the cloth regularly.The shuttles of hands seemed to make out a lot of beautiful rainbows.
  
  Final oyster shell house
  The most peculiar building is the oyster shell house in the village. Its main materials of construction are the oyster shells.The oyster shells from the sand dike are arranged in two rows,and mixed with the yellow mud.Thus,in that way houses are built.At least the oyster shell houses have a history of 500-600years.They are the evidence of the “changing history”of the southern China.They may prove that the place Xiaozhou Village is located now used to be a vast expanse of water.
  The oyster shell houses are hidden among the numerous old and now houses.It is said that there were more than 100houses before.Under the guidance of Mr.Ling,one villager,we found one.We were puzzled and asked him:”why could not these beautiful house be repaired?”He said with some regret:”the houses are private.If they want to pull them down and build new house,no one can oppose. ”
  The oyster shell house in front of us was the only one survived.Being eaten away by the wind and rain for so many years,all the oyster shells were exposed outside full of bumps and hollows.But the whole house gawe people one kind of very special shock.People one kind of very special shock .People could feel the wisdom of the ancestors of the village.They lived in such a natural house,where it was warm in winter and cool in summer,taking a life of farming and fishing according to the sunrise and sunset.All these seemed to be in a critical situation like the final oyster shell house,and finally they could only become the memory.
  
  Watery village in dim dream
  The ares of Xiaozhou Village is quite big with green and luxuriant old trees.The roads are paved by the blue stone bars,conneting all the lanes.The village is surrounded by the waterways,in which small wooden boats anchor.The water in the river beats the old jetty for so mary years…Comparing with other famous scenic spots for tourism.Xiaozhou Village seems to keep silent too mush ,Is this one kind of loftiness or freedom?I think people come here for a visit will have their own decision.
  It should be an elegant and quiet of small bridge,floating water,blue brick and tiles.But the newly houses,which are so much unharmonious,are added to it ,I felt very disappointed.We hope to see more old building and culture with the southern characteristics,But as to the villagers,they should make progression.Their lives should not remain as thouse old buildings for us to come and enjoy the sight.How one Kind of ancient civilization and culture exist and develop is really worth our thinking over.
  When we left the village,we found out a duck farm in the wide river.The ripples in the water seemed to leave me some feeling for Xiaozhou Village.The water rippled for a long time,and seemed to bring me back to the watery village in the dim dream.
  
  (<CHINA TOUR&SIGHTSEEING> MONTHLY JUNE.2003)
  

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作者:swy105 时间:2003-07-31 03:23:51
  Was this article originally in Chinese?
作者:雨打残荷 时间:2003-07-31 08:14:52
  The actical is too long.....
  And I nearly lose the patience.
楼主molihua 时间:2003-08-01 01:18:08
  寻觅岭南水乡——小洲村
  图文/茉莉
    
  寻觅水乡风情
  
  从书本上接触到《珠江竹枝词》,其中的“岸上不如船上乐,青山绿水是儿家”,能背诵得朗朗上口,由此可知,广州一向是与水有密不可分的亲缘的。名汇大厦挂着的老照片中,有一幅是河南岛的图片,就是如今的整个海珠区,至清末还是水上人家聚居之地,船只与江水互相交融成岭南水乡的绮丽风情。但是我日日面对的广州却是高楼耸立的大都市,只能从图片文字加上想象方能虚构出那样的水乡画面。
  第一次听说小洲村的名字是在电台节目里,小洲村被政府定为最具有岭南水乡特色的古村寨。村领导以一种很自豪的口气诉说着小洲村的点滴,印象最深的是他说村里有一间99道门的祠堂,我当时就忍不住惊叹,那将是如何的壮观。
  晴朗的周末,抱着寻觅岭南水乡的心愿,从电子地图上查获小洲村的大概位置。在海珠区兜兜转转,数次停车向行人问路,颇有点“踏破铁鞋无觅处”之感。当失望的心情一点点地涌现时,小洲村的路牌突然地出现,令人心情为之一震。随之扑面而来的是田野泥土的清香,鲜红的圣女果在树梢亭立,累累的杨桃挂满枝头,数不清的绿油油的果树,奶牛在棚架下吃草……
  经小桥进入小洲村,在村民耐心的指点下,开始了探访小洲村之行。
  犹豫地挪动着脚步,鞋子与麻石碰撞发出的声音很悦耳,跟鞋子与水泥和大理石地面撞击的响声大不相同,显得沉闷悠长,我想着,要是有一双木屐就好了,可以敲出一段动听的“雨打芭蕉”来。
  狭窄的麻石巷,流着浑水的河道,穿戴时髦的村民,被弃置的小船,隐约的狗叫声,打破宁静的摩托车,崭新的现代楼房,堆放整齐的木柴,流淌着时尚的发廊,商品丰富的士多,残破古旧的门环门窗……在这被封为最具岭南水乡特色的村子里,充满矛盾的事物被历史不经意地揉合在一起。
  
  古朴民风犹存
  
  我们沿着贯村而过的狭窄迂回河道行走。小洲村是由海水冲积而形成的,所以村内水道纵横。有河就得有桥,小洲村的桥有几十座,都比较残旧和简陋。有些甚至于只是两条长长的麻石砖拼接成的。
  有座桥比较特别,有矮矮的石护栏,是有200多年历史的翰墨桥。村里还有“一”棵奇树,是龙眼树与榕树的共生树,村民们把这相生相依合二为一的奇树称之为“姻缘树”。据说村民迎亲时必须得先在奇树下绕一圈,再过翰墨桥,这样就能大吉大利,百年好合。
  村里的公园叫瀛苑,种有各种各样的岭南常见的花木,木棉树、榕树、紫荆花、观音竹等。因为是周末,一派热闹的气氛与广州别的公园无异。小孩子有的在空地上打球,有的在榕树下玩耍,榕树粗壮的枝条成了他们的滑梯和跷跷板;一群人围着下棋,落子有声;老人们坐在凉亭下,惬意闲聊。古榕树的突出在地面的树根盘旋蜿蜒,象是件鬼斧神工的艺术品,枝干横卧河岸,纹理柔和,细碎苍翠的叶子迎风招展。
  有99扇门的祠堂没能找到。在公园旁边的有座已经荒废了的祠堂,让人能窥见其魅力的一角。当脚步一接触祠堂的麻石板时,从心里油然生出虔诚来,祠堂高高的柱梁,建筑的气派,对人造成无形的心理暗示,以一种朝圣或是准备奉献的心情面对里面的事物。
  我们只能想象着祠堂曾经在村民的心里是如何的重要,他们在重大的节日或活动的时候聚集在祠堂里,或祭祠神明祖先,或商议村中事务,或举行红白喜事……
  祠堂里面是空空的,墙壁或许写满了光阴的故事。祠堂高跷的屋檐,可以想象当年的雄伟俊俏的风采。
  村里仍然保留有一些古朴的民风,每年龙舟邀请赛他们会组成叫作“瀛洲飞龙”的船队参赛。在部分还在使用的祠堂和庙里,香火还不断地袅袅飘渺。村民们都以友善的目光看着来采风的我们,拍摄顺利进行。我也对着他们笑,询问关于村里的事情,感觉象是对着故乡的久违的亲人。
  
  
  古文明的痕迹
  
  在古老故事里,女红是女子的必修课程。可惜在我们身上已经荡然无存了,渐渐习惯于购买现成的商品。
  小洲村有众多的手工作坊店,被称之为刺绣工艺的技术还保留着。
  中年妇女们坐在河边,心平气和地在雪白的薄如蝉翼的真丝上,用珠子珠片订成一幅美妙的图画。我与她们聊了几句,她们的口吻始终是从容淡定的,手指挥着绣花针,在布上有规律地穿梭,飞舞之间仿佛描绘出一道彩虹。
  村里最奇特的建筑是蚝壳屋。蚝壳屋是建筑材料主要是蚝壳,是从沙堤里就地取材的,以两两并排的组合方式,再拌上黄泥而砌成的房屋,是岭南曾经“苍海桑田”的见证物。据说以前有一百多间。蚝壳屋至少已有五六百年的历史,可以证明小洲村所处的地方以前是一片汪洋。
  蚝壳屋隐藏在众多新旧房屋中间。在热心村民梁伯的带领下,我们才得于找到。我不解地问他:“这么别致的房子为什么没能得到很好的修葺呢?”他略带遗憾地说:“房子是私人的,他们要拆除来建大屋也没人能反对。”
  我们眼前的蚝壳屋是唯一幸存的一间。经长年累月的风雨侵蚀,蚝壳全部外露,坑坑洼洼的,但是整座房屋给人非常特别的震憾的感觉,能从中体味到古村民的智慧。他们住在这样的天然的冬暖夏凉的房屋里,过着日出而作日落而息的农耕或渔民生活。这一切似乎象这岌岌可危的最后的蚝壳屋一样只能变为记忆了。
  
  
  依稀梦里水乡
  
  小洲村的面积很大,河道环绕,巷巷相连,条形青石板铺路,古树木郁郁葱葱,河道里停泊着小木船,河水经年累月地拍打着的古码头。比起其它著名的旅游景点,小洲村显得过于缄默,这是一份清高还是洒脱呢?我想,到此一游的人心里自有定论。
  本应是小桥流水、青砖青瓦的淡雅画卷,却加入了新式艳丽楼房这一不甚协调的元素,令到象我这样的猎奇者非常失望。我们希望看到的更多是古旧的建筑,有岭南特色的人文,但是对于村民来说,他们得进步,他们的生活没有可能象那些古建筑古文明一样供在那里任由我们去观赏。至于一种古文明古文化它应该怎么生存和发展却是值得我们思考的问题。
  临离开之前,在一片宽阔的河里发现了个养鸭场,水面泛起的涟漪,就象是小洲
  村留给我的感受一样,久久地荡漾着,仿佛让我回到了依稀梦里的水乡。
  
  小贴士
  小洲村适合在任何季节来旅游,四季不同的秀丽风景,空气清新,村民和蔼。各种各样的果林,常年岭南佳果飘香,出产的石峡龙眼远近闻名。
  在村子旁边兴建的瀛洲生态公园,接待中外游客到此捕捉大自然的精灵,享受农家乐。
  如果开车的话从广州市区经工业大工业道转入广州大道,横穿新滘南路就可按路牌指示到达。
  这里是25、86、252公共汽车的总站。
  
  (中文版初稿)

楼主molihua 时间:2003-08-01 01:21:23
  http://www.tianyaclub.com/new/techforum/Content.asp?idWriter=0&Key=0&idItem=44&idArticle=324474
  
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